On my first morning in Napa Valley just after sunrise, I drift weightlessly in a hot air balloon a thousand feet above the rolling green landscape –– a giant quilt stitched with perfect patches of farmland, striped with vineyards, and dotted with palatial homes that look no larger than LEGO bricks.
Within an hour of touching ground, I climb aboard the Napa Valley Wine Train and take a seat inside a vintage 1915 Pullman rail car. I spend the rest of the day clickety-clacking along the historic rail line slicing through one of the world’s most celebrated wine regions, sipping wines, indulging in gourmet cuisine, and stopping off for seated tastings at some of Napa Valley’s pioneering wineries.
Writer Mauri Elbel boards the Napa Valley Wine Train.
It’s a dreamy introduction to my first Napa Valley sojourn, and one that set the pace for slowing down, sipping and savoring –– exactly what this wine destination beckons visitors to do. California’s Napa Valley, comprised of five charming towns, is by no means an under-the-radar tourist destination. For the past 50 years, travelers have flocked to the Napa Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area), a modest but mighty 30-mile-long by 5-mile-wide wine haven known for its diverse microclimates and soils suited to the cultivation of premium wine grapes. Today, Napa Valley boasts 16 AVAs, 46,000-plus vineyard acres, and more than 400 wineries.
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On my recent trip, I experienced Napa Valley from three unique vantage points –– from the rails, the skies, and on foot –– without ever taking a seat behind the steering wheel. Whether you’re planning your next Napa trip or visiting for the first time, here are a few ways you can swirl, sip and savor the best this wine country has to offer without the stress of driving anywhere.
Napa Valley Wine Train’s exquisitely maintained 100-year-old Pullman train cars invite you to embrace the spirit of luxurious early 20th-century rail travel.
Napa by Train
Aboard a restored vintage 1915 Pullman rail car, I sip a glass of bubbly and peer out the expansive windows onto an endless stream of vineyards rolling past, the tidy rows of green vines bathed in the late morning sunlight. Shortly after the train whistle pierces the air, the first of four decadent courses is placed before me: a plate of smoked salmon eggs Benedict served with potato rosti, arugula frisee salad and maple-glazed bacon lardons, drizzled with avocado crema.
Climbing aboard the Napa Valley Wine Train is like embarking on a journey through the storied wine region’s history. The rail line that the Napa Valley Wine Train travels along, from McKinstry Street Station in the Rail Arts District to St. Helena and back, has run through the heart of the Valley since 1864 and has served as a main source of travel through the area ever since. Taking its inaugural trip more than 35 years ago, the Napa Valley Wine Train has remained dedicated to preserving the golden age of the luxury train, whisking its passengers back in time to the elegant days of train travel with polished service, world-class wines and culinary dishes prepared on board by executive chef Rodrigo Cuadra and his team.
Snap photos in front of the iconic “Welcome to Napa Valley” sign as you taste Napa Valley wines on the Legacy Experience. Mauri Elbel photo
“We consider our team on board to be professional curators of Napa Valley,” says Nathan Davis, the Napa Valley Wine Train’s general manager. “They are really taking you on a journey through Napa’s history, its great wines, and giving you a lot of knowledge and entertainment, too. It’s such a great way for people who come to Napa to see the Valley in a way that opens the doors to really understanding what this special place is all about.”
Napa Valley Wine Train offers more than a dozen distinctive experiences, spanning leisurely daytime rides through iconic vineyards, afternoon high teas featuring Chandon-inspired cocktails, wine pairing gourmet tastings, and romantic twilight dinners. Not all experiences are wine focused (although it’s still available for purchase) –– there’s family-friendly Santa trains during the holidays and thrilling murder-mystery dinners, too.
I highly recommend the six-hour Legacy Experience where highlights include a four-course wine country-inspired meal paced throughout the trip, wine tastings in the open-air car surrounded by iconic Napa vistas, and stops for seated tastings at Charles Krug, Napa Valley’s oldest winery established in 1861, and V. Sattui Winery, which was founded in 1885.
Soak in panoramic Napa Valley views from the second-floor observation-style Vista Dome car as you pass rolling hills and rows of vines while enjoying a four-course lunch prepared and served onboard.
Another day, I boarded the Wine Train for the Vista Dome Lunch Experience, which takes place inside one of 10 ever-constructed 1952 Pullman glass-domed observations cars. About half the duration of the Legacy Experience, passengers don’t ever disembark the train. But from the second floor, opulently restored observation-style car, they still enjoy the 360-degree Valley views, a delicious four-course lunch, and Napa wine selections offered from Opus One, Far Niente and Beaulieu Vineyard’s Georges de Latour Private Reserve, to name a few.
Napa from the skies
Within an hour of waking up in Napa Valley for the first time, I was floating silently in a hot air balloon thousands of feet above the Valley, soaking in a bird’s-eye view of the lush wine country landscape below waiting to be explored. Majestic mountain ranges reach into the morning sky just beyond –– the views alone making the pre-dawn wakeup call completely worth it.
I took a ride with Balloons Above the Valley, which has been flying hot air balloons in the Napa Valley since 1976. Although intimidating at first, the experience is more tranquil and peaceful than you imagine. Other than the occasional roars from the burners blasting fire and heat up into the buoyant balloon, hot air ballooning is a completely serene and surprisingly silent experience. As we ascended higher and higher into the cloudless blue sky, we caught reflections of our balloon in the river below, watched as a herd of black cows ran across the field, and got lessons on our agricultural and geographical surroundings from our pilot. Balloons Above the Valley recently launched a “Fly and Ride” package in partnership with Napa Valley Wine Train –– they both conveniently operate out of the same station, making it easy to book both experiences in one day.
Balloons Above the Valley’s owner and founder Bob Barbarick is a pioneer hot air balloon aviator and started his balloon company in Napa Valley in 1976.
Napa on foot
Most people who come to Napa Valley get around by car. But staying at the River Terrace Inn, a peaceful downtown Napa riverfront retreat tucked in the heart of downtown Napa Valley, put me steps away from the train station as well as some of the best tasting rooms, wine bars and restaurants Napa has to offer.
On the Wine Train’s Legacy Experience, enjoy cracked mustard-cider glazed salmon with fregola, artichoke puree, asparagus and dried apricot. Photo by Mauri Elbel
When I wasn’t indulging in the culinary experiences aboard the Napa Valley Wine Train, I was never more than five minutes from the next amazing meal or glass of wine. One evening, I ordered raw oysters and steamed mussels from Hog Island Oyster Company, and after a run the next morning, I grabbed a hearty breakfast sandwich and iced Matcha latte at the famed Model Bakery. Both are housed in Oxbow Market –– a 40,000-square-foot foodie marketplace featuring 22 independently-owned vendors and restaurants, located within walking distance of River Terrace Inn.
River Terrace Inn is also just a stone’s throw from The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Copia –– one of three CIA campuses in the country. The epicurean wonderland offers enticing culinary experiences delivered by CIA chefs and experts as well as hands-on cooking and beverage classes guests can enroll in.
Perched above the Napa River, The River Terrace Inn is a luxury hotel in the heart of downtown Napa Valley. Photo by Mauri Elbel
When I was too exhausted to venture far from my room after a long day of wine tastings, I dined at Alba Restaurant in the hotel’s lobby –– their menu focuses on fresh, seasonally-inspired small plates that are perfect for sharing. Another evening, I walked 10 minutes to Kitchen Door, a Todd Humphries restaurant that features an ingredient-driven menu of handmade multi-ethnic comfort food and local wines. Favorites included the deviled eggs with chives and pickled red onions, the flat iron steak with grilled romaine, and the oyster and maitake mushroom pizza topped with arugula –– be sure to pair it with your favorite Napa Valley reds (you’ll find plenty on the wine list).
Vintner’s Collective Napa Valley, also within walking distance from River Terrace Inn, is one of my favorite tasting rooms I’ve ever visited. Housed in an 1875 sandstone building that is now a national landmark, the storied tasting room enjoyed several past lives as a saloon and brewery with a bordello on the second floor, a Chinese laundry, and even a chick hatchery. Original architecture is well preserved and the membership names –– Madame, Red Light and Bordello, to name a few –– are a nod to the past. Today, Vintner’s Collective pours wines from around 20 small, family-owned Napa wineries including Las Bonitas Wines, Carte Blanche Wine, Hailstone Vineyards and Patel Napa Valley. Opt for a tasting at the bar with a customized flight of five wines, intimate seated options for a more in-depth, personalized experience, or a “best of the best” tasting that moves through the smallest productions and most profound wines in the Vintner’s Collective family.
If You Go
Getting there:
From Austin, I flew into San Francisco International Airport (SFO), which is the closest major airport. Downtown Napa sits just 50 miles north of San Francisco, and it was easy to catch a ride share directly from the airport. I arrived late at night, so the drive was just over an hour, but plan for two hours during high-traffic times. If you want to avoid renting a car, other options include booking private transportation services or taking the San Francisco Bay Ferry to Vallejo then using the VINE Transit bus into Napa Valley.
Stay:
River Terrace Inn, tucked in the heart of downtown Napa Valley, is located steps away from the train station, restaurants, wine bars and tasting rooms. The peaceful downtown Napa riverfront retreat overlooks the Napa River and nature preserve and features well-appointed guest rooms, ALBA restaurant, a fitness center, and an outdoor riverside terrace and full bar.
Eat + Drink:
When you’re not indulging in the culinary experiences aboard the Napa Valley Wine Train, some of Napa’s best restaurants and tasting rooms are a short walk from the River Terrace Inn, including: The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Copia, Oxbow Market, Vintner’s Collective Napa Valley, and Kitchen Door.
Insider tip:
Bundle up for the hot air balloon rides –– the morning air is chilly. There’s no dress code aboard the Napa Valley Wine Train, but most passengers dress the part in everything from dresses and heels to slacks and coats.
