I consider a few minor scrapes a sure sign of a good trip, and I returned from Mohonk Mountain House in Upstate New York on Friday with a nice one on my left shin.
The “ink,” as my mountain biking buddies would describe it, came compliments of some Shawangunk Conglomerate, a type of layered rock that forms the cliffs around Mohonk, a historic old resort near New Paltz, New York. That rock is ideal for rock climbing, and I spent four days at the lodge, scrambling through boulder fields, squeezing between narrow rock walls, and inching my way along a new via ferrata, the first in the area.
Here are the ten best things about my stay at the resort, located 90 miles north of New York City …
The setting. Mohonk Mountain House is tucked in pine-studded hills surrounding a half-mile long lake in the Shawangunk Mountains. Think “Dirty Dancing,” only fancier. You can wander 85 miles of trails on Mohonk’s 1,200 acres, or hike into the 8,000 acres of the surrounding preserve.
The summerhouses. Tiny wooden shelters called summerhouses, each with benches perfectly angled so whoever sits there takes in a spectacular view, are scattered across the property. Most have names. My favorite? Thurston’s Rock, located at the end of a narrow shaded path tucked in a shady alcove high above Mohonk Lake.
The Via Ferrata. Just this May, Mohonk unveiled a new cabled climbing route, or via ferrata. Visitors buckle into harnesses, clip to a safety cable, and use metal rungs to traverse a half-mile route – and take in spectacular, above-the-treetop views of the wilderness as they go.
The Labyrinth. My last morning, I got up early and ventured into the Labyrinth, one of the resort’s classic rock scrambles. I channeled my inner gecko as I scampered over boulders, waddled up chimney-shaped formations and worked my way through a narrow passage called the Lemon Squeeze to the top of a ridgeline.
The lodge itself. A rambling and slightly mismatched mashup of buildings that has been added onto over the years, Mohonk Mountain House oozes character and cozy charm. My room overlooked the lake, and had its own fireplace, balcony and clawfoot tub.
Reading nooks. Half the fun of staying at Mohonk is tiptoeing down long carpeted hallways and discovering a collection of books and reading nooks around every corner.
That lake. I’m a swimmer, and can’t resist leaping into any wild body of water. I spent some time down at the tiny beach, tucked in a hidden cove, but found my bliss with a dawn swim through swirling fog with the resort’s “endurance concierge.” Look closely and you might spot salamanders like I did.
The sky bridges. One day, I joined a group on a guided trip through the Pinnacle Ledge Tour, which starts with a scramble over armchair-sized boulders and into rock cervices, progresses into a ridgeline section (with a safety cable) where you tiptoe along a dropoff, and peaks with a white-knuckle trot across a teeny tiny (and sometimes wobbly) bridge over a gorge.
Nature’s spa. Mohonk added a spa in 2005, which was recently refreshed. I dozed off to the sounds of wind in the treetops and chirping birds during a treatment at the new Lakeview Summerhouse, where you can book a massage in an open-air cabin high above the lake.
The porch. More than 600 wooden rocking chairs creak away on the Mohonk grounds, and I spent more than a few minutes gazing at the lake and sipping hot tea while rocking away on the main porch behind the Lake Lounge.