Explore the great outdoors in little Castell, Texas

May, 2022
Castell

An angler casts a line along the Llano River in Castell. Pam LeBlanc photo

Last month, I stood at the top of sand-splashed Keyserville Road, a mile or two outside the tiny burg of Castell, and took in the scenery. 

In the distance, a cloud of dust rose like smoke behind a pack of cyclists chugging their way up the dirt road toward me. Behind them, layers of hills rippled into the hazy distance. A cow mooed from afar, and all around, prickly pear cactus mingled with just-sprouting bluebonnets. 

I had landed in the Hill Country west of Llano as official photographer for the Castell Grind, a gravel bike race that takes place every April. But a day behind the camera out here feels more like a vacation than a work assignment.  

I’ve visited Castell a dozen times over the years. Usually I come to paddle the Llano River, ride my bike, play in the water, catch the bat show at a nearby sinkhole and drink beer at a picnic table at the old general store. I have friends who own a home nearby, and I’ve stayed up late there swinging in a hammock, counting shooting stars, too. 

If you’ve never visited the area, known mostly for white-tailed deer hunting, you should first stop at the Llano County Historical Museum, 18 miles away at 310 Bessemer Avenue in Llano, for an introduction. (And, while you’re there, you can pick up brisket from Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que.) 

Whatever you do, come prepared to kick back and chill out. 

Related: Glamping out at Onera Fredericksburg 

Where to stay in Castell

Castell doesn’t have any hotels, but it does have a few rental homes and a smattering of cabins, including a few that front the Llano River. 

I particularly like the Castell Cottage, a small white clapboard home at 19702 W. Ranch Road 152 with a nice swing on the porch and a huge yard. It’s just across the street from the river, and a 2-minute walk to the Castell General Store. El Castell on the Llano River, 102 Rockin River Road, is another good choice, and the Leifeste Campground at 2602 Jim Leifeste Road offers an inexpensive place to pitch a tent or park your RV. 

Paddling the Llano River near Castell

If you’re into canoeing or kayaking, bring your boat with you. From Castell, take two vehicles and drive west, to where Highway 87 crosses the Llano River 20 minutes from town. 

The 12-mile paddle back to Castell always takes longer than I think it should, as in four or five hours, depending on your motivation level. (I recommend a leisurely trip, with stops on gravel bars to snack, and watching for bird life along the way.) 

castell

Pam LeBlanc takes a break from paddling the Llano River. Photo by Chris LeBlanc

The river spools out like a greenish-blue ribbon, slow and languid in places and twisty and churning in others. You’ll have to navigate a minefield of boulders, and if the water level is low (like it is now), you’ll have to drag your boat periodically. That’s just part of the fun, I promise. 

The trickiest section of water comes just before you get to the FM 2768 crossing in Castell, where I suggest walking down a series of rocky rapids instead of trying to float through. (Check river flows on the Lower Colorado River Authority’s site,  hydromet.lcra.org/full.aspx.) 

Other tips? Make sure you’re fit and understand the risks. Paddle plastic kayaks instead of an aluminum canoe, which will stick to the limestone river rock. Bring lots of water. Pack all your valuables into dry bags in case you flip your boat and bring a personal flotation device. As always, carry out whatever you bring in. (Really good river stewards pick up what others left behind, too.) 

Castell General Store

Chris LeBlanc enjoys smoked chicken on a picnic table at the Castell General Store. Pam LeBlanc photo

And if you want smoked chicken at the finish, call Randy at The Castell General Store in the morning and ask him to set one aside for you to pick up when you’re done paddling. Otherwise, they’re liable to sell out. 

Related: A new way to ride – take an E-bike for a spin 

Gravel biking around Castell

Castell

The lead pack of cyclists in the 2022 Castell Grind chug up Keyserville Road. Pam LeBlanc photo

If biking’s more your thing, bring your gravel bike. One of the region’s most popular gravel rides, the Castell Grind, unfolds on the country roads surrounding Castell each April. (The 2023 event is scheduled for April 1; registration opens at noon Nov. 1 and will fill quickly.) More than 500 cyclists chug their way up Keyserville Road, make a loop and head back on undulating two-lane roads into town. Some peel off there, but those who ride the whole 100 kilometers cross the river and make a northern loop too, passing through dry creek beds and past fields of wildflowers. 

Wherever your human-powered wheels take you, you’ll find truly Texan terrain, complete with burnt orange and white longhorns, bounding white-tailed deer, fields of wildflowers and prickly pear cactus, and vultures perched atop trees, their wings spread like capes to stay cool.  

Take a drive and go a little batty

From Castell, it’s about an hour’s drive to the Eckert James River Bat Cave Preserve southwest of Mason, where 4 million Mexican free-tail bats roost each summer.   

Visitors can sit on benches in a designated viewing area and watch the spectacle, which begins just before sunset on most evenings. It starts when a few scout bats flutter out of the mouth of the cave, a 65-foot hole in the ground. Soon they stream out by the thousands, a whirling vortex of furry, avocado-sized mammals. You’ll hear the flapping of wings and smell the guano, too. 

Despite the bad rap they sometimes get, the bats are surprisingly cute. They also do critical environmental work by dispersing seeds, cross-pollinating plants and gobbling up insects that wreak havoc on farm fields. 

The bats typically arrive sometime in May and depart with the first cold front of the season in October. The grounds are named for W. Phillip Eckert, whose children Richard and Virginia donated the cave to the Nature Conservancy in 1990. Typically, the site opens to the public Thursday through Sunday evenings during the summer, but it closed during the pandemic. Officials say it will open for bat watching season in 2022.  

If You Go

Getting there:

Castell is located about 105 miles northwest of Austin, and 18 miles west of the county seat of Llano.

Stay:

Book the cozy Castell Cottage, 19702 W Ranch Road 152, by calling 325-248-4270.

Do:

Ride your bike, paddle the river, or visit the Eckert James River Bat Cave Preserve 15 miles southwest of nearby Mason, where bat viewing is due to resume this summer. Check the Eckert James River Bat Cave Preserve website for details or call 325-347-5970 for updates. A donation is requested.

Eat & Drink

The bright yellow Castell General Store, 19522 Ranch Road 152, is open Wednesdays through Sundays, with live music on Saturdays and an in-house church service every third Sunday. The grill serves burgers, chicken sandwiches and pizza, and on weekends you can reserve a smoked chicken by calling ahead at 325-247-4100.

Pro tip:

When you stop by the general store, be sure to ask about the long-gone but famously frisky rooster named Cockaroo that once lived there.

Follow Austin Travels


Austin Travels is a women-owned, Austin-based travel magazine committed to highlighting destinations in Texas and beyond through the lenses of diverse and talented writers.

Subscribe

Snorkeling with sharks at the Texas State Aquarium

Snorkeling with sharks at the Texas State Aquarium

Craving cold? ICE! debuts at JW Marriott San Antonio Hill Country this winter

Craving cold? ICE! debuts at JW Marriott San Antonio Hill Country this winter

Texas 2024 Beach Guide

Texas 2024 Beach Guide

Why go to Florida when you can get your mermaid certification in Texas

Why go to Florida when you can get your mermaid certification in Texas

Bluebonnets are back: A dozen spots to see spring wildflowers in Central Texas

Bluebonnets are back: A dozen spots to see spring wildflowers in Central Texas

Three close-to-Austin places to camp

Three close-to-Austin places to camp

48 hours in the Texas Hill Country

48 hours in the Texas Hill Country

10 unique, family-friendly ideas for Texas spring break fun

10 unique, family-friendly ideas for Texas spring break fun

Three holiday-themed staycations to check off your list

Three holiday-themed staycations to check off your list

Get away to Galveston for a tour of Battleship Texas and more

Get away to Galveston for a tour of Battleship Texas and more

Celebrate everything from sausage to barbecue this November

Celebrate everything from sausage to barbecue this November

The perfect long weekend in Sugar Land, Texas

The perfect long weekend in Sugar Land, Texas

Corpus Christi: Savor the Flavors of the Gulf Coast Capital

Corpus Christi: Savor the Flavors of the Gulf Coast Capital

Texas’ Top 10 Sizzling Festivals in August

Texas’ Top 10 Sizzling Festivals in August

Hang your Hat in Hunt, Texas

Hang your Hat in Hunt, Texas

Corpus Christi: 7 Family-Friendly Summertime Musts in the Gulf Coast Capital

Corpus Christi: 7 Family-Friendly Summertime Musts in the Gulf Coast Capital

Slowing down to soak in the beauty of Big Bend

Slowing down to soak in the beauty of Big Bend

Ready to get away? 5 day trip ideas perfect for a summer jaunt

Ready to get away? 5 day trip ideas perfect for a summer jaunt

Reminiscing in Aggieland

Reminiscing in Aggieland

7 Spots to Splash Near Austin

7 Spots to Splash Near Austin

Heading to Dallas? Four fun finds for summer

Heading to Dallas? Four fun finds for summer

Daytripping and sipping in Shiner, Texas

Daytripping and sipping in Shiner, Texas

Camping on Crutches

Camping on Crutches

Heading to Bayou City? 10 fun, uniquely Houston things to do

Heading to Bayou City? 10 fun, uniquely Houston things to do

6 Hill Country Gems Perfect for a Spring Day Trip

6 Hill Country Gems Perfect for a Spring Day Trip

Bluebonnets are back! 10 Spots to See Texas Wildflowers this Spring

Bluebonnets are back! 10 Spots to See Texas Wildflowers this Spring

Discover more than ancient tracks at Dinosaur Valley State Park

Discover more than ancient tracks at Dinosaur Valley State Park

When it comes to Austin-area staycations, love in the air

When it comes to Austin-area staycations, love in the air

Best bet for birding? Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley State Park

Best bet for birding? Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley State Park

The Driskill: A Staycation Steeped in History

The Driskill: A Staycation Steeped in History

A Texas-sized cruise aboard the Allure of the Seas

A Texas-sized cruise aboard the Allure of the Seas

Fishing, kayaking and beachcombing on Matagorda Bay

Fishing, kayaking and beachcombing on Matagorda Bay

Gone glamping: Get away, comfortably, this fall near Austin

Gone glamping: Get away, comfortably, this fall near Austin

Relax and unwind in Round Top, Texas

Relax and unwind in Round Top, Texas

Cozy up around a firepit at a Valencia hotel this fall

Cozy up around a firepit at a Valencia hotel this fall

Seeking out adventure and finding respite at Horseshoe Bay Resort

Seeking out adventure and finding respite at Horseshoe Bay Resort

Family friendly fun in San Antonio (even if your kids bail on you)

Family friendly fun in San Antonio (even if your kids bail on you)

Bastrop State Park: A backyard gem, then and now

Bastrop State Park: A backyard gem, then and now

Eight beginner-friendly places to paddle in Central Texas

Eight beginner-friendly places to paddle in Central Texas

Nine Nearby, Natural Spots to Keep Cool this Summer

Nine Nearby, Natural Spots to Keep Cool this Summer

Hiking, horses and history at Hill Country State Natural Area

Hiking, horses and history at Hill Country State Natural Area

Explore the great outdoors in little Castell, Texas

Explore the great outdoors in little Castell, Texas

Camping out at Enchanted Rock

Camping out at Enchanted Rock

Walk in the footsteps of Judge Roy Bean in little Langtry, Texas

Walk in the footsteps of Judge Roy Bean in little Langtry, Texas

Getting back to nature at the Roy E. Larsen Sandyland Sanctuary

Getting back to nature at the Roy E. Larsen Sandyland Sanctuary

Heading to Brenham? You’re in for a treat

Heading to Brenham? You’re in for a treat

5 hotel pools ideal for beating Austin’s summer heat

5 hotel pools ideal for beating Austin’s summer heat

Thirteen things to love about Lubbock

Thirteen things to love about Lubbock

Glamping out at Onera Fredericksburg

Glamping out at Onera Fredericksburg

5 fun family-friendly experiences on the Texas Coast

5 fun family-friendly experiences on the Texas Coast

Six places to park your campervan in Texas this Spring

Six places to park your campervan in Texas this Spring

Go wild: A dozen spots to see Texas bluebonnets and wildflowers

Go wild: A dozen spots to see Texas bluebonnets and wildflowers

A new way to ride: Take an E-bike for a spin

A new way to ride: Take an E-bike for a spin

March Festivals: 10 Texas Celebrations Worth a Trip

March Festivals: 10 Texas Celebrations Worth a Trip

Three Texas sips to warm you up this winter

Three Texas sips to warm you up this winter

Weekend getaway: Carefree in Concan at 7 Bluff Cabins

Weekend getaway: Carefree in Concan at 7 Bluff Cabins

A winter retreat at Hyatt Regency Lost Pines

A winter retreat at Hyatt Regency Lost Pines

Seeking relaxation and uncovering empathy at Miraval Resort

Seeking relaxation and uncovering empathy at Miraval Resort

Soaking in the holidays and Austin’s history at the iconic Driskill Hotel

Soaking in the holidays and Austin’s history at the iconic Driskill Hotel

Martin Dies Jr. State Park is an East Texas treasure

Martin Dies Jr. State Park is an East Texas treasure

Make your way to Matagorda Bay for coast without the crowds

Make your way to Matagorda Bay for coast without the crowds

Fishing up old memories and making new ones at Inks Lake State Park

Fishing up old memories and making new ones at Inks Lake State Park

FIRST LOOK: Inside Chef Tim Love’s new Fort Worth shipping container hotel

FIRST LOOK: Inside Chef Tim Love’s new Fort Worth shipping container hotel

Go to Garner this fall for the Frio, foliage and family fun

Go to Garner this fall for the Frio, foliage and family fun

Discover the diversity of LBJ National Grasslands

Discover the diversity of LBJ National Grasslands

Falling for Fredericksburg: Sample all this Hill Country haven has to offer

Falling for Fredericksburg: Sample all this Hill Country haven has to offer

Central Texas Camping Guide

Central Texas Camping Guide

A fall paddle down the Devils

A fall paddle down the Devils

5 nearby parks perfect for an RVshare road trip

5 nearby parks perfect for an RVshare road trip

Texas Glamping Guide

Texas Glamping Guide

Women, wind and waves: Surfing for adventure

Women, wind and waves: Surfing for adventure

Dive in: 7 swimming holes and natural spots to splash into near Austin

Dive in: 7 swimming holes and natural spots to splash into near Austin

Girls getaway: 24 hours in San Antonio’s Historic Pearl District

Girls getaway: 24 hours in San Antonio’s Historic Pearl District

A downtown Houston hotel reimagined –– plus 5 things to do nearby

A downtown Houston hotel reimagined –– plus 5 things to do nearby

A true escape: Domovina Ranch in Smithville

A true escape: Domovina Ranch in Smithville

Royal treatment: 24 hours of spa bliss at one of Houston’s poshest hotels

Royal treatment: 24 hours of spa bliss at one of Houston’s poshest hotels

7 magical things to do with kids in Big Bend and West Texas

7 magical things to do with kids in Big Bend and West Texas

Photo Essay: The missions of San Antonio

Photo Essay: The missions of San Antonio

Becoming a birder at Galveston’s FeatherFest

Becoming a birder at Galveston’s FeatherFest

Seminole Canyon’s world-class rock art is a lens to history

Seminole Canyon’s world-class rock art is a lens to history

Discovering Surfside Beach, a Texas Gulf Coast treasure

Discovering Surfside Beach, a Texas Gulf Coast treasure

Nature and nurture: Hill Country wellness retreat offers a salve for the soul

Nature and nurture: Hill Country wellness retreat offers a salve for the soul

Gruene Hall: Daytrip to this timeless Texas treasure

Gruene Hall: Daytrip to this timeless Texas treasure

Everyone’s an artist at Amarillo’s Cadillac Ranch

Everyone’s an artist at Amarillo’s Cadillac Ranch

Get away while giving back to foster children at stunning Hill Country glamping spot

Get away while giving back to foster children at stunning Hill Country glamping spot

Plan Your Outdoorsy Adventure

Plan Your Outdoorsy Adventure

Discover history and simple pleasures in Baffin Bay

Discover history and simple pleasures in Baffin Bay

Texas bluebonnets are back! 10 wildflower hotspots

Texas bluebonnets are back! 10 wildflower hotspots

8 Great State Parks for Camping with Kids

8 Great State Parks for Camping with Kids

Fishing and Sea Turtles and Birding, Oh My: A weekend at South Padre Island

Fishing and Sea Turtles and Birding, Oh My: A weekend at South Padre Island

Relax and relish the coastal charms of Rockport

Relax and relish the coastal charms of Rockport

Social distancing in sleepy Sonora: Escape to a luxury ranch resort 3 hours from Austin

Social distancing in sleepy Sonora: Escape to a luxury ranch resort 3 hours from Austin

Lessons in life and death on the beach in Port Aransas

Lessons in life and death on the beach in Port Aransas