Mountains, glaciers and more on a Smithsonian Journeys trip to Patagonia

September, 2025

Hikers make their way toward Mount Fitz Roy during a Smithsonian Journeys trip to Patagonia. Pam LeBlanc photo

Earlier this year, I stood in front of a 19-mile-long river of ice in Patagonia, gawking at its size and listening to it groan like a living beast.

At one point, a house-sized iceberg floating in front of the glacier rolled over slowly, revealing its midnight-colored belly. I felt tiny – a feeling I got often during a 13-day trip through the rugged and diverse region at the bottom of South America.

Patagonia encompasses parts of both Chile and Argentina, and the Andes Mountains run along it like a backbone. I explored frosty glaciers, sweeping rivers, towering granite spires and undulating grassy plains during the trip with Smithsonian Journeys, which offers the action-packed itinerary as part of its Active Journeys lineup.

We focused our time at two of the region’s most famous national parks ––– Torres del Paine National Park in Chile and Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina. But we also squeezed in a biking tour through the wine country near Santiago, a barbecue at an estancia, and a stop at a roadhouse where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid holed up more than a century ago.

Below are some of the highlights.

Exploring the Maipo Valley during a Smithsonian Journey’s trip to Patagonia

My husband and I flew into Santiago, a bustling city of about 7 million people. We met our tour group there.

I didn’t like Santiago itself – probably because hours after stepping off the plane, someone stole my husband’s backpack, which contained our passports. (Read here how we miraculously got them back.)

But cool nights and warm days, plus well-drained soils, mean good growing conditions for grapes. We spent a day in the nearby Maipo Valley, visiting an art gallery and bakery, then pedaling bikes through the countryside. We sampled the goods at several wineries.

The next day, we flew south to Puerto Natales, Chile, where we started our exploration of Patagonia.

Visiting Torres del Paine National Park

After overnighting in Puerto Natales, we got up early and drove into Torres del Paine National Park (literally “Towers of Blue.”)

More than 250,000 people a year visit the park, named for the trio of dramatic spires of rock at its center. Backpackers flock here to hike the celebrated 46-mile W Trek. That route leads past the most famous of the park’s turquoise-colored lakes and jagged peaks.

If you visit, a hike to the spires is a must-do. Just brace yourself – it’s the most popular attraction at the park. High season crowds can be overwhelming.

We started the hike on a Saturday morning in February, the busiest time of year. We quickly got caught in a throng of hikers. At one point early on, we had to wait in line just to cross a pedestrian bridge. Throughout seven hours of hiking, we never shook the stream of people.

Still, the views of those jagged granite spires will stick with me forever.

Staying at Lago Grey Hotel

If you can, book a room at Lago Grey Hotel. I relished lying in my bed there and gazing out the windows at a gray-blue lake and distant glacier.

We stayed three nights. One day we hopped on a tour boat that carried us across the lake for an up-close look at Grey Glacier. The boat stopped at one point, so a crew member could chip a little ice from a small iceberg to make cocktails. (I’m not sure how I feel about that.)

You don’t have to leave the hotel’s grounds to get an eyeful of wildlife. A resident Magellanic woodpecker the size of a football showed up. It tapped for insects on trees (and a window frame) near the main lobby. A fox frequently drops by for a visit, too.

Our only disappointment? The hotel’s food was mediocre.

Hiking to French Valley

Hikers make their way through a charred forest in the French Valley of Patagonia. Pam LeBlanc photo

For me, the crowd-attracting trail to the spires wasn’t the best part of Torres del Paine. The hike into the French Valley, though, blew my (hiking) socks off.

The trail led us through wildflower-covered ravines and into an eerily beautiful section of charred trees. A tourist burning toilet paper sparked a blaze in 2011 that burned 42,000 acres. We crossed swaying suspension bridges, passed marshes and peered down on roaring rivers.

And at the end of the looping route, we celebrated with a beer at the hostel located next to the trailhead.

Put it on your list.

Onward to Argentina

After a few days at Torres del Paine, we loaded back into our van and headed toward the Argentinian side of Patagonia. Remember, you’ll need a passport to cross the border.

There, Los Glaciares National Park lures visitors drawn to the icy formations that spill from the expansive Southern Patagonian ice fields. About a third of the park is encased in ice.

You’ll feel like a speck in a frozen world.

La Leona

I got a surprise on the way to Los Glaciares when we stopped at La Leona, a roadhouse and small hotel on Patagonia’s famous Route 40. The remote outpost reportedly served as a hideout for Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

We ordered empanadas (try the spinach). One wall is dedicated to the famous bank robbers, depicted by Paul Newman and Robert Redford in the classic 1969 film.

Visiting the glacier museum

Before heading into the park, we spent a few hours at the Glaciarium, a museum on the outskirts of El Calafate devoted entirely to glaciers.

The 27,000-square-foot facility, which opened in 2011, explains how glaciers are formed, how they move, and the status of the glaciers in Patagonia. Highlights include a documentary and a three-dimensional model of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.

Visiting Perito Moreno Glacier

The blue ice walls of Perito Moreno Glacier wow visitors at Los Glaciares National Park. Pam LeBlanc photo

At Perito Moreno Glacier, the main attraction at Los Glaciares National Park, you can stroll nearly 3 miles of boardwalks. The pathways wind within 1,600 feet of the front face of the glacier.

We watched as several Suburban-sized chunks of peeled off the glacier’s front face and smashed into Lake Argentino below. Plan on staying a few hours for the experience; chances are you’ll see a similar show.

Scientists say the glacier remained stable until 2020, growing as quickly as chunks broke off. But today, like most glaciers around the world, it is receding.

Visiting an estancia

Smithsonian Journeys’ trip to Patagonia includes a stop at an estancia. Pam LeBlanc photo

After visiting Perito Moreno Glacier, we drove to Estancia Nibepo-Aike, a century-old ranch where gauchos still work sheep and cattle. We took turns milking Flavia, one of the resident cows, before walking down to the lake to get a view of the surrounding mountains.

Back at ranch headquarters, we watched the gauchos round up sheep. Then they showed us how to sheer one the old-fashioned way, using non-mechanized clippers. We also watched a horseback riding demonstration before heading into the ranch house for a traditional barbecue.

The ranch, founded by Croatian pioneers, has been under the same family management for three generations. It also offers overnight accommodations.

Hiking to Mount FitzRoy

On our final full day in Patagonia, we hiked the Laguna Torre trail to Mount FitzRoy, also known as Cerro Chaltén.

The hike began right out the door of our hotel. It’s steep but flattens out when you reach a wide valley. At one point, we trotted over a series of logs to cross a swampy pond. To get to the lake at the foot of the mountain, you’ll have to make a final scramble over loose scree.

We skipped the final climb. Gusting winds buffeted our group, forcing us to hunker down. Instead, we hiked to another viewpoint. It paid off. We got views not only of FitzRoy, but Piedras Blancas Glacier, which clings to a high mountain ledge.